Pilgrimage makes us deeply aware of ourselves… it reminds us of our human nature taken on by Jesus Christ himself, that through walking with him we might know forgiveness and freedom.

Rt Rev Christopher Foster, Anglican Bishop of Portsmouth

This Good Friday, a group of us went on a pilgrimage walk between St Mary’s, Redbourn and St Albans Cathedral.

The walk is around 5.25 miles and follows the St Amphibalus Way. Amphibalus is the name given to an unnamed Christian priest, who was fleeing from persecution in around 300AD in Roman Britain, where Christianity could not be openly practised. He was offered shelter by Alban, a local Roman citizen of the town of Verulamium (now St Albans). Alban was so impressed by Amphibalus’ teaching that he became a Christian, and exchanged cloaks with him. This allowed Amphibalus to escape, while Alban gave himself up and was arrested in the priest’s place. Refusing to give up his new-found faith, Alban was tried and executed, becoming England’s first saint. You can find more information on the St Amphibalus Way here.

We felt that this pilgrimage walk was rather fitting to undertake on Good Friday. Alban’s sacrifice, being executed in the place of Amphibalus, points us to the sacrifice of Jesus, who was punished in our place so we can go free. What good news to ponder and reflect on as we walked and shared fellowship together!

Starting at St Mary’s, Redbourn, we set off in good spirits despite the damp weather, which thankfully disappeared as the day wore on. Following the River Ver, we stopped off at Redbournbury Mill for some delicious hot cross buns and pastries (a mill has existed on the site since at least 1087), before pressing on towards St Albans. Walking together was a great chance to mix and get to know other people in the group better, with a diverse range of ages and nationalities taking part. Spirits were high as the Cathedral came into view and, in what felt like no time at all, we had arrived in St Albans. We paused for lunch in the Verulamium Park, before making our way up the hill to the Cathedral for the Good Friday service.

The service itself provided an opportunity to meditate on ‘the Passion’, Christ’s suffering on the cross, through a mixture of liturgy, prayers, hymns and music sung by the outstanding Cathedral Choir. The sermon focused on the theme Who do you think you are? In a world where our identities can be so fleeting and unstable, Good Friday provides the answer: we are loved by Jesus! We left the service afterwards, each of us ruminating over what we had heard.

Many in the group afterwards commented on how much they had enjoyed the day. Our thanks go to Mark, Petra and Mung for organising, as well as to all those who offered lifts there and back.

Plans are already in the works for a pilgrimage walk next year, so keep an eye out once 2027 rolls around!